The name may reference Bangkok's original name, Phra Nakhon, but this busy spot is all about the now and just might convince you that you're dining in an alley in the capital city. It's precisely the point, as this restaurant from Intira and Norapol Youngphitak celebrates Bangkok's street eats scene. Dishes are well-executed, especially the hor mok hoy mang phu, a vibrant dish of tender mussels stuffed with curry paste custard and sweet coconut milk sauce. Namtok kor moo yang plates grilled marinated pork jowl tossed with spices and a Thai chili-lime dressing, but khao yum is a knockout dish with its flurry of ingredients. It tastes even better while sipping an inventive cocktail named for characters in Thai soap operas.
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