The Ace Hotel's Koloman has a timeless appeal. A beautiful backlit bar welcomes you before enter the dining room, set with antique mirrors and plush banquettes. Tables with views of the semi-open kitchen are the most in demand. It's old world-meets-new on the menu, where Chef Markus Glocker and his team take French and Viennese classics and render them with modern sophistication. Snapper crudo with spicy citrus is a bright opener before moving on to a textbook soufflé in all of its pillowy perfection sided by mushroom jam. Celery root tartare is a clever take on tradition using vegetables that have been given a boost from Pommery mustard.