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Standing in the centre of a charming Tuscan village, Caino is at the epicentre of the cuisine of the Maremma, where Valeria Piccini is its proudest ambassador. This skilful chef sources the best ingredients from the region and then extracts every ounce of flavour from them, as demonstrated by the cacio cheese ravioli in beetroot cream and the pici pasta “alla amatriciana”. If you’re a fan of fish and seafood, try the stew which is made using delicately flavoured fish and a cream sauce, and served with blanched seasonal vegetables and traditional Tuscan crostino. Front of house, Valeria is ably assisted by son Andrea, who oversees the well-stocked wine cellar featuring a selection of different Brunello and Barolo vintages, as well as Bordeaux-style Tuscan labels, all at excellent prices. And if you’re in company, make sure you share a good Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice from 1988 or 1989. In summer, the bistro-style Il Giardino di Caino opens on the terrace, serving simpler dishes inspired by old family traditions.