Sune (pronounced ‘sooner’) has the feel of a small wine bar, but the heart of a great neighbourhood restaurant. Its fluid menu lists around 14 sharing plates, which show an admirable restraint so that dishes are never overcrowded; the focus is on simple combinations of complementary flavours that are robust and satisfying. So, succulent pork collar might be paired with crisp, bitter tardive, and wild sea bass with charred greens. The delightful young service team ensure the arrival of dishes is well paced, so one never has to resort to the sort of plate shuffling choreography that sometimes blights similar places.