This long-standing, passionately run restaurant never stands still, always investing and evolving over time. It’s still very much a family concern, with Garry Watson alone in the kitchen and his mother Maria handling the service with aplomb. There’s a modern feel to both the décor and the cooking, with the latter proving colourful and technically accomplished. Dishes really shine in their use of the Scottish larder, like local lamb with seasonal girolles. An interesting wine list and five bedrooms complete the picture.