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If you’ve ever wondered how Thomas Keller cooks at home, Ad Hoc is your best bet. The most casual of Chef Keller’s restaurants, it offers accessible fare served family style in a bright and inviting wood-paneled room. Waits are inevitable without a reservation, but the engaging staff keep things hopping. The dining room feels like a country home, with that iconic blue awning and a sign that reads “for temporary relief from hunger."

The food is worth the wait and while dishes may sound simple, the crafting is not—come every other Monday for the outstanding fried chicken. A salad of sautéed red bliss potatoes tossed in Sriracha aïoli is beyond par; and even the humble cheese course dazzles. Generous portions may warrant sharing chocolate mousse for dessert.