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In contrast to many of the shiny new restaurants that open every year, this Woodley Park veteran under-promises and over-delivers in the best of ways. Coffee-colored carpet, a tame color scheme to match and a quiet crowd do not sound like the makings of a great dinner, but under new management, the restaurant cooks with delicious confidence. The menu covers a lot of ground but does so admirably. Broccolini with black garlic Caesar dressing, crispy fried oysters with pickled cauliflower, and tempura beach mushrooms dusted in a Moroccan spice blend are enough for a meal on their own. Rack of lamb with salsa verde or halibut with coconut broth strike familiar, satisfying chords. For dessert, the pistachio ricotta cake is a sweet finale.