Meaning ‘my home’, this single-storey courtyard house circa 1950s set amid tall residential buildings will instantly teleport guests back to grandma’s home in the countryside. The menu is mostly Taiwanese from a bygone era, with occasional Hunan and Xinjiang offerings. Old-time steamed river perch with fermented chillies has complex savoury umami with a mild kick. Barrel chicken is chargrilled in the courtyard and needs pre-ordering.