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A pair of plush rooms makes Angler feel like a hunter’s cabin gone Nordic-chic, but all eyes eventually drift to the gorgeous kitchen, where the cooks tend to a live fire. The touch of those embers can be felt everywhere—from the blush-pink bigeye tuna enhanced by shiso and a perfectly chilled tomato jelly, to ultra-tender pieces of hot fried quail generously flavored with a crispy pepper coating.
Meticulousness is the prevailing theme as seen in the transformation of the humble cauliflower into a large, superbly roasted floret seasoned with vadouvan and a splash of lime. Stuffed? Tough. It would be plain wrong to leave without indulging in a delicious soft-serve sundae happily paired with warm salted caramel and cool cocoa nibs.