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Restaurants five times as large wish they could do what Clover Hill does from its postage-stamp of a kitchen. On a quiet, residential street in Brooklyn Heights, this kitchen cooks with irresistible suaveness and confidence, making the most out of top-rate ingredients, delicious sauces, and thoughtful combinations. From Long Island fluke ceviche jolted with lime zest and sweet melon to Peekytoe crab salad wrapped in corn gelée and set in a pool of warm, silky corn velouté, expect to find vibrant, seasonal eating that never once feels fussy or onerous. Under a watchful vintage mirror that hangs above the bar, the charming bistro setting, lit with flickering candles, oozes romanticism.