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You can always find this Mexican favorite by looking for the crowds out front. Chef Cosme Aguilar has long helmed this favorite in Long Island City, and the restaurant is constantly abuzz. On a menu that rarely changes, find family recipes alongside the expected tacos and guacamole, but know this kitchen shines brightest with the bigger plates. Think Branzino prepared “al pastor” and marinated in guajillo and achiote or the braised lamb shank set in a fruity-spicy broth. Above all else, there must be mole, which is excellent in all its forms from chicken enchilada to just chicken and rice. For dessert, tres leches is the classic, sweet finale or just ask your waiter for another round of frozen watermelon margaritas. There’s no wrong answer.