With a name like Cavar Russe, there’s no ambiguity about what sort of experience is on offer: a parade of luxury ingredients with eye-watering prices to match. Diners are led up a marble staircase at this posh jewel box, where views looking out over Madison Avenue below feel classically New York Offerings of the namesake range from a relatively attainable dollop of Pacific Sturgeon to 500-gram tins of Osetra that cost more than first-class tickets to the Caspian Sea. The French-inflected menu, available as either a prix fixe or à la carte, straddles classic and contemporary, as in a chilled white asparagus velouté with a tartare of scallop and a touch of caviar. Long Island Pekin duck is elegantly plated and served with a croquette with foie gras.
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