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This famed address hidden in the back corner of a Hell’s Kitchen grocery store now enters a new era under Chefs Max Natmessnig and Marco Prins. The room is a box of luxury and sparkles as bright as ever under the spotlights, with most guests seated at a glossy walnut counter that wraps around a brigade of cooks who have nowhere to hide. The team works quickly, sending out a volley of delicate tarts and bites that showcase a refined, Japanese-French style. Recent highlights include langoustine with yuzu and koshihikari rice, a large sea scallop in a lush brown butter sauce, and a slender block of turbot with firefly squid sauce and herb-oil swirled buttermilk. All the while, a faultless service team keeps close watch from all corners of the room.