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In the midst of modern New York, Wallsé evokes a sense of place and a reverence for history. However, those who may think Austrian food is all Wiener schnitzel and apple strudel should think again, because this cuisine is itself made up of a host of influences, stretching from Italy all the way to the Balkans. Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner and his kitchen also demonstrate how cuisines can evolve to respect contemporary tastes without compromising their integrity. There are plenty of classics, including the spätzle with ramps and goulash, but other options include the white asparagus salad, fresh with savory pops of smoked trout, or cool down with the silky- smooth chilled spring pea soup.