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This comforting charmer honors the communal dining traditions of Indonesia’s West Sumatra. Thick, knotted ropes hang overhead in a narrow, intimate room fit with white brick and a tiled wall that nearly looks like white seashells. Chef Cedric Vongerichten delivers a verifiable feast served in little bowls and plates that fill every inch of space on the table. With the exception of your entrée, there are no choices to make for this easy prix fix. After a quick amuse, the rest of the meal lands at the same time, allowing diners to bounce between fluke sashimi dressed in a light sambal hijau, crispy sweetbreads sitting in a gulai curry, and egg balado with Thai basil. Pickles, garlic rice, and crisp tapioca crackers also dot the table.