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This beloved Sichuan haunt now counts multiple locations across the city, but everything started at the East Village original. The winding, cavernous setting includes a communal table, exposed brick, and low ceilings. Dinner could go in any numbers of directions. Some opt for the dry pot in which diners customize their ingredients—meat, seafood, vegetables, rice—and degree of spiciness. The possibilities here are nearly infinite. Those who aren’t up for making so many decisions swing for Sichuan classics. Recent highlights include the cold husband and wife appetizer (braised beef and tripe), warm dan dan noodles, and a particularly elegant white fish with pickled vegetables. Nothing is an intense barn-burner in terms of spiciness.