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Chef/owners Masashi Ito and Kevin Kim have no interest in a solemn sushi temple, and in the shadow of One World Trade, their 14-seat counter is full-on revelry. Excellent quality fish, much of it flown in from Japan, deep knife cuts and potent saucing define the nigiri. And whereas some chefs save all of their fireworks for the nigiri progression, appetizers like kampachi with yuzu chive oil and desserts like strawberry panna cotta are compelling bookends. The crowd skews young, leans on whiskey and sake, and, by the meal’s end, are already looking forward to their next reservation, which they booked long before they first walked in.