Longevity in this part of town is a mighty achievement, but it's easy to see why Bocca di Lupo has remained popular for so long. Besides the switched-on service and buzzing atmosphere, the cooking itself provides the classic Italian techniques that everyone loves. The extensive menu takes you on a journey around Italy, with the region of origin listed beside each dish; share some fritti Romani while you make your decision. The marble counter is the place to sit and, for the sweet-toothed, the team also run an ice cream shop, Gelupo, across the road.