With its dark, rough-lacquered wood and tiny candles, there is something pleasingly intimate about this wine bar and restaurant, where the walls are adorned with covers of the owners' Noble Rot magazine. This really is an oenophile's paradise, with the enthusiastic, clued-up team happy to suggest a smart, sometimes surprising, pairing to go with your meal. The cooking itself is decidedly classical, unfussy and more than a little French. The braised turbot with vin jaune sauce epitomises this spirit, which comes in tandem with gutsy, satisfying flavours.