This smart spot, with its central Mayfair address and leather banquettes, makes a fitting flagship for the eponymous Chef-Owner. There's a clubby feel to the place, with dimmed lighting adding to the intimacy and Dickies Bar on hand if you're partial to a pre-dinner cocktail. Although there are subtle modern touches, the menu is largely guided by classical French techniques (pommes Anna, vin jaune sauce) and a pleasingly retro approach in dishes like the royal seafood cocktail, filled with sweet and meaty prawns.