This is the only Barrafina that doesn’t take bookings – but the one that invariably boasts the best atmosphere – and you can order drinks and snacks while you wait for a seat at the handsome L-shaped counter. The tapas menu is supplemented by an appealing little blackboard of the day’s best produce, which may include mackerel, carabinero or sardines. Sharing a tortilla is always a good start and then, if you look at what your neighbours are having, you’ll find yourself ordering more and more of the colourful dishes.