There are a range of global influences to be found across the vegetable-led dishes at this ‘mostly vegan’ restaurant, from the massaman sauce with pak choi to the ‘Chinatown’ purple potatoes. There’s technical skill on display too and a strong understanding of textures in particular. It’s a smart place, with the feel of a neighbourhood restaurant; the front room, with plenty of natural light, is best for lunch, while the slightly moodier rear makes for a more intimate dinner.