‘Kaen’ in Thai is a homonym with many meanings. Owner Chef Paisarn, who worked as executive chef at a 5-star resort, infuses those meanings into this restaurant in his hometown (Khon Kaen). The cuisine is contemporary Thai at its core (kaen), yet also playful, (kaen kaew), as in the recommended Massaman curry with lamb shank. Even the dining room reflects it — a large table with exposed heartwood (kaen mai) made at his family’s wood shop is a centrepiece.