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Even after more than two decades of service, this Houston institution is as sharp as ever. The menu is focused, offering just a limited number of appetizers and salads to keep all eyes and appetites on the prime, in-house dry-aged steaks. Seasoned and seared properly, the cuts are complemented by generous, finely tuned sides like creamed spinach with ham or oversized onion rings (ask for extra crispy). Part of the genius here is the service: Veteran waiters and friendly sommeliers are effortlessly hospitable regardless of whether you order 1947 Petrus. Altogether, with white tablecloths, glossy wood paneling, and a wine list that has few equals, this restaurant captures a kind of magic that is rarely seen these days but unquestionably appreciated.