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Barbecue competition is steep in these parts, but in just a few short years, pitmaster Grant Pinkerton, who lives above the restaurant, has made a name for himself. The number of deer heads mounted on the walls of this low-slung joint makes you wonder whether beef is really on the menu, but indeed it is. Everyone starts with the hulking beef rib, which often sells out before midday, and thick, melting slabs of prime-grade brisket cooked over mesquite and oak. Like all good barbecue, neither piece wants for sauce. Not to be outdone are the brilliantly tender St. Louis-style ribs, which are glazed to order in a sweet sauce made with dehydrated vegetables. Keep an eye on the back wall where daily specials are written in small print.