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Although the acclaimed original location in Brenham is little more than a roadside shack, this Houston Heights sequel from owner and pitmaster Leonard Botello IV is a gleaming model of modern efficiency. Fortunately, the cooking still has plenty of soul: the brisket is expectedly solid, while smoked pork ribs and house-made sausages are a cut above. Surprisingly, sides like collards, beans and corn pudding—or even the more rarified tater tot casserole with crisp fried onions— might even be the highlight, offering the flavorful, rib-sticking quality of lovingly homemade dishes. If, somehow, you manage not to fill up on the tantalizing savory options, those with an implacable sweet tooth can tip the scales with hefty slices of house-made cake.