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Once housed in a squat room connected to a gas station at the foot of a highway, this knockout Thai restaurant has moved just down the street. Still, you’ll probably need reservations. Chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter and her husband have rightfully won over the hearts and appetites of the city with fearless, fiery cooking. Start with the papaya salad, but be warned: This opening act, even at medium spice level, takes no prisoners. There must also be pad see ew, which is a masterclass in charred noodle excellence. The house-made curries are deeply flavored; the green one is notable. All the while, the spacious room bounces along to Thai hip hop blaring overhead.