Its name comes from an old English word for ‘journey’, but there is something decidedly contemporary about this city centre restaurant – from the airy, pared-back interior to the on-trend open kitchen and terse menu descriptions. An antique stained-glass window adds character and makes a fine backdrop for the chefs as they show their immense talent across colourful, precisely executed dishes that utilise punchy flavours like pickled walnut, mushroom ketchup and sweet carrot purée.