Since opening in 2010, this gastropub has defined what it means to look like one thing but cook like something else. A long bar stocked with a breathtaking whiskey selection and excellent draft beer anchors a dimly lit dining room fitted top to bottom with wood; its tiny kitchen relegated to a corner. And yet, what lands on the table is far from ordinary bar food. Think terrines made of rabbit and pork or stroganoff paired with sweetbreads. The daytime menu is especially enticing. Cured salmon with crispy potato pancake is a meal unto itself, while the omelet has few equals, a singular triumph folded around mushroom, sweet leeks, and melted brie. Neighbors wander in from morning until night, happy to be back at a place that feels like home.
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