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Stone walls, an arched ceiling, and an intimate lower level fit with its own fireplace? Chef Ryan Fakih makes it easy to forget that his tables reside in the Fulton Market District. Drawing on his Lebanese heritage and on family recipes, he makes a strong impression with a mezze of parsley hummus with lamb, falafel in yogurt sauce, and generously charred pita. Such a spread shows both heart and refinement. The tasting menu riffs from there with more stylized interpretations of sayadieh (fish and rice) and mograbieh (chicken stew) and concludes with a flurry of small, sweet bites. A seat at the ever-busy bar offers a casual experience with a limited selection of snacks and thoughtful cocktails made with the likes of arak, Aleppo, and tahini.