The New York Palace Hotel provides baroque splendour in spades and its New York Café is the most photographed dining space in Budapest. However, above it, on a mezzanine level, hides this lesser-known jewel, where an enthusiastic team deliver refined, cleanly presented dishes which take inspiration from Hungary’s classics and the former Austro-Hungarian empire. These rich, hearty flavours are balanced by the occasional international note, which adds a welcome freshness to proceedings.