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In sharp contrast to lengthy tasting menus fit with all the bells and whistles, this six-seat counter is about as easygoing as they come. The setting is the back room of a long-standing market that sells bento boxes and sushi-grade fish during the day. There are also no servers — just Chef Daniel Lee and his sous cooking and chatting as if they’re hosting a dinner party for friends in their apartment. The casualness of it all is a welcome stage to the nicely pitched menu composed almost entirely of fantastic, locally sourced fish. Think wahoo sashimi topped with a zesty cucumber-seaweed sauce or superb tilefish cured in kombu, wrapped in shiso leaves, and fried in a light, flaky, beer batter. Guests are encouraged to bring their own beverages.