It’s out of the way and you need a taxi to get here. But when you see the vast patio and grand dining room styled after the archetypal Parisian brasserie circa 1900s, its suburban address will make sense instantly. On the menu, French classics take precedence – escargots, steak tartare, confit de canard, baba au rhum – though their seafood platter is also popular. Charming table service makes dishes like côte de bœuf and crêpes Suzette stand out.